Monday, September 3, 2012

Gobi, Gobi, Howl-lelulia


The Gobi Desert.  A place often viewed with mystery and intrigue.  A place many have heard of and few visit.  A place only a few hours from where our group is staying… at least that is what they tell us.
A little more than a few  hours later, we arrive at Banyan Gobi, a fairly plush ger camp on the edge of the Gobi desert.  It is a quaint little camp that consists of about 30 gers and a bath house.  There are herds of sheep and goats calmly grazing in the pasture nearby.  Many of us felt the call of the wild as soon as we arrived.  After dropping off our gear in our gers a group of us headed off into the dunes. 

The Gobi is not as arid as I had initially thought.  There are many scrubs, grasses, and even trees near where we stayed.  On the walk out, we encountered many bones and animal remains in the pastures we passed through to get to the more desert-like region.  These were mainly goat remains left from a previous slaughter. 
We stepped onto the sandy dunes past the pastures and it immediately felt more desert-like.  Josh offered a bounty of ₮20 to the first man to defeat the highest dune in front of us. I being on to take on almost any challenge (even if it is for just over 1₵) took off sprinting. 

As I reached the top, I looked back victoriously as my less competitive compatriots walked up the dune.  The view was amazing!  I could see off into the distance for what seemed like miles.  When everyone made it to the top, there were photo ops galore.  Then the time came that we needed to head back to camp to have dinner.

Since heading into the desert had been made into a competition, of coursing leaving also had to become one.  On the way back Howard, Hayden, and I found a nice, big dune that was fairly clear of shrubbery and shrapnel and we emptied our pockets.  We laid down at the top and waited for the ward from Adam with his video camera.  When he gave the word, we began to roll.  Faster and faster we went as we gained velocity down the sandy dune.  When we reached the bottom and regained our composure, I realized that I had curved about 20’ to the left while Hayden and Howard made a fairly straight run.  Regardless, Adam and others reported that I had made it down the fastest.  Sweet, sweet victory once again.

We trekked back through the pastures of bone to our dinner ger, the largest ger I have ever seen.  We were served a fairly fancy dinner, an unexpected situation in the wilds of the Gobi.  After we ate and had class, the wild called to us once again.  Another group of us decided to go see the stars in the desert before we went to bed.  It was a dark and storm free night.  We chatted for a while and after seeing a few shooting stars and satellites, we headed back to retire to our gers but not before I was able to plan a sunrise hike to the highest nearby hill with Aaron.

5:15 My alarm beeps in my ear.  The fire has gone out and the warm woolen blankets are my last safe haven of warmth in the harsh morning cool of the ger.  I am supposed to meet Aaron in 15 minutes.  We have made a pact that if either of us is not there by 5:45 the other will head out alone. 

5:20 The soothing comforts of my covers still hold me captive.  Is this really worth it? How much will we be doing later that will require me to be well rested? How cold is it outside compared to the warmth of my covers?  I decide I still have plenty of time before I need to be up so I roll over again.

5:25 I am still held hostage by my bed.  I convince myself that there will not be another chance to see a sunrise over the Gobi.  I pry myself out from under my covers, but only after dragging my frigid clothing under my covers to put them on and warm up before I enter the cold, harsh world that is our ger.  I exit the ger and venture into the colder, harsher world that is the outside of our ger and head over to the designated meeting area.  When Aaron is not there, I head to his lodging to see if I can rouse him.  Just as I walk up, he exits ready to go. 

The regret from leaving the my bed quickly dissipates as I warm up from the walk to the hill.  The hike is filled with good company and good conversation.  We traverse up the undefined “paths” that lead up to the peak of the hill.  We see various unique bugs and flowers on the way up.  Finally we reach the top. 
We arrive just as the sun is rising in the east over a glorious array of clouds in the otherwise clear, vast sky.  Rays of orange, goldenrod, and pink spread themselves into the blue-grey predawn expanse, illuminating the clouds causing them to burn radiantly in the previously dull sky.  The light shines brightly on the ovoo at the top of the hill, the warm colors of the sun contrasting the blue prayer flags tied to the wood and stone.
We take plenty of pictures of the sunrise and each other.  As we are reveling in the majestic early morning show, three eagles swoop in over the horizon.  They banter playfully with each other and other birds as we look on awestruck.  We take some more pictures of the eagles and a horse skull we find nearby and then begin our decent.

As we take the bus back down the bumpy dirt road on the way back home, someone notices a local herdsman with his herd of camel.  We have been told that we would be given the opportunity to ride camels so we have the bus pull over here.  A group of Swedish Buddhists who was also at our camp is finishing up their ride leaving the camels unoccupied and ready for our group.  Colin arranges a price with the owner, though too late for some as Aaron has already handed a wad of cash more than three times the decided price to the herdsman and gotten on a camel.  We all take turns riding around in a small area around the bus while the others take pictures and watch those on the camels.  After the pictures have been taken, we all pile back onto the bus and head out to our next destination.

A few hours later, we arrive at Karakorum, Chinggis Khan’s old capital.  We looked at the booths outside of the city where I was able to hold an eagle very similar to the ones we saw earlier.  We went into the city and explored for a while. We went back out and I began honing by haggling skills.  When everyone had finished, we took the under-estimated ride back to the city, finishing the night with grilled cheese sandwiches made by the GA’s.  The dogs were extremely excited when we returned and barked and howled at us all night long

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